Ever found a jacket that's perfect, except it's just a touch too long? Learning how to hem a jacket with a zipper can save you from alterations fees and ensure a snug fit. Here's a comprehensive guide to help you achieve this, step by step.
Before you start, gather your materials: the jacket, scissors, tailor's chalk, a measuring tape, a straight pin, and a sewing machine with a universal needle and suitable thread. Also, ensure your sewing machine can handle the jacket's fabric – ask at a local fabric store if you're unsure.
Preparation
Try on the jacket and determine where you want the hem to be. For a classic look, the hem typically falls around where the thumb starts at your closed fist or slightly above the widest part of your hand. Mark this spot with a straight pin on both sides of the jacket.
Using tailor's chalk, draw a horizontal line across the back of the jacket at the pin level, ensuring it's straight and even on both sides. This will be your new hemline.
Measuring and Cutting
Zero in on the width of the hem. Since hemming reduces the length, you'll need to account for this in the width. Measure the distance from your chalk line to the current hemline, then add half of that measurement to the width of your new hem.
When cutting, make sure you're working on a flat surface to prevent puckering. Cut along the chalk line on the back of the jacket. On the front, mark a line parallel to the back cut, maintaining the half-width adjustment. Cut along this line, keeping your cuts as straight as possible.
Preparing the Zipper
After cutting, try on the jacket again to adjust the zipper's new position. Mark the top of the zipper's slider on both sides, then use these marks to create a snug fold at the new zipper placement. Iron to crease and secure with pins.
Position the zipper so that the zipper slider sits at the fold's new position. Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine to carefully stitch along the crease, securing the zipper and ensuring it still functions smoothly.
Hemming the Jacket
Now that the zipper is re-positioned and Sewn, it's time to hem the jacket. Fold the cut edges upwards, creating a new hem. Press the fold with your iron to ensure it stays in place. Typically, you'll want your hem to be around 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm).
With the jacket still inside out, try it on, ensuring the hem looks even and falls where you want it. Make any necessary adjustments before Sewn.
Sewing the Hem
Using a straight stitch, Sewn along the edge of the folded hem, starting and ending a few inches from the zipper. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure your stitches. Ensure you pull the thread taut as you go to prevent puckering.
After Sewn, try on the jacket again to ensure the hem sits as desired. If it's too long, you can always trim more, but remember, you can't add length back!
Finishing Up
Give your jacket a final press to ensure the hem lies smoothly. Try it on once more, and you're ready to show off your jackets tailoring skills. Whether you're tackling a casual linen jacket or a formal wool overcoat, mastering this hem technique will allow you to achieve a perfect fit every time.